Day 6 - Gravina in Puglia - Picciano ~ 30 km

We had a great relaxing day with Emiliana yesterday. I had time to recover for the next day. The highlight of the day was when we went for gelato and my go-to order is always one fruity scoop and one chocolatey. So I asked for a ferrero rochet and lemon sorbet. And suddenly the air froze, the server guy stopped, looked at me and with 100% seriousness said that he can't serve me that, because the two does not go well together 😂 and he was waiting for me to change my order. Then Emiliana and him shared a moment of connection about foreigners not respecting food. 

My two chocolatey flavours 😭 How can ice cream be this cheap in Italy? This cone cost €2 with two flavours. And it was one of the best ice creams I have had. 

We went out to discover the old town. Fun fact: this is where they shot the last James Bond movie, No Time to Die. James Bond jumps off the bridge from here. Emiliana said they have been getting more tourists since then.

            My Couchsurfing host Emiliana and I

In the evening we went out for some drinks with Emeliana's friends and their Irish friend, Damian. It was a very fun night with great conversations, food and beer. However, it might not have been the best idea to drink before a 30 km hike in the morning. 

The next day I left again at 6.30am. I felt a bit nervous knowing I have to walk 30 km and it might rain again in the afternoon. I was also nervous because today was the day I was sleeping in a Monastery. So I didn't know what to expect of the place and the situation; will I be the only one there; will I feel uncomfortable? I didn't know that it's going to be the worst day of my Camino. 

Leaving from the spot James Bond jumpes down somewhat felt quite motivational

The walk was amazing as always, beautiful scenery all around.

As I was turning left on the main official path, at around 10 kilometres suddenly three big white wild dogs were baricading the path. As soon as they saw me they started running towards me, barking, showing their teeth'. I was absolutely terrified. I used a firm voice, looked into their eyes and slowly started walking backwards. I decided I'm not going to try and risk going past them.

They were definitely no one's dogs and likely were just stray dogs living in the forest as it was in the middle of nowhere with no houses around. So I had to find an alternative route. I went back 500 metres and started going North of the original path trying to find a parallel path I could take. After a few kilometres on the mountain, the path crossed a farm. The farmers were very kind and asked me if I was okay, where I was heading and let me cross their farmland. 

I found a parallel path and started walking on it, really hoping that on this path there won't be any surpises like wild beasts or cliffs and so on. Thankfully the path was okay except for the rain lakes on the path. So much rain water has piled up, I had no other choice but to cross it, making my boots soaking wet and muddy. 

There were so many fallen trees on the path that seemed to have been damaged by the thunderstorms which made me even more uneasy knowing if the thunderstorm reaches me here, I won't be safe on the path. So I tried to pick up the pace as much as I could. 

After 4-5 kilometres of walking my alternative path merged with the main Cammino path. I felt quite proud that I managed to overcome this dog alert and get past them using my navigation skills.

I ran into another guy doing the Cammino on the path, Fernando. We walked a bit together but his pace was way faster than mine so I ended up walking behind him. It was a relief however to know I'm not the only one on the path.

I felt absolutely exhausted after 22-23 kilometres but the view was so amazing, it made up for it. At this point today I had no deeper thoughts while walking, my mind was completely empty, only focusing on putting one leg before the other. 

Finally I saw the end, the Monastery on the top of a hill. It was quite motivational seeing the finish in front of me and knowing I only have to climb that hill and it's over, I'm done for the day, can find my room in the Monastery and relax for the day. 

The last hike up felt like hardest, it felt like I'm using all the remainder of my energy. I was out of water and really dehydrated. It felt like I could not walk a single step more.

          The Monastery on the top of the hill

I finally arrived, exhausted. Fernando was already there and other Italian women who were all very sweet and congratulated me on getting there. Then I tried to find the priest I talked with but I couldn't find him anywhere and people didn't understand me. A very kind woman (one of the ones who congratulated me) came over and helped me find the priest. She asked over 5 people when we finally found him. Right away I noticed he's nothing like I imagined. The way he first looked at me was with disgust, seeing I have a backpack and assuming I want to stay there. 

He said right away I can't stay there and that's that. I showed him the text that I had with him where he said I could stay. The lady had a look and agreed and showed him the evidence. He kept saying 'non-confirmata' over and over again, meaning that I hadn't called and confirmed it. But why should I have if he said I could stay? The lady was furious too about his attitude. He made a mistake but instead of apologising he kept denying, gaslighting and making it like it was my fault. He didn't try to resolve the issue at all, taking no responsibility and just kept saying 'non-confirmata' even as we left with the lady. I didn't even look at him I was so angry. After walking 7 hours this was the least I needed. Today is not the day when I convert to catholicism. 

Unluckily, all the other accommodation in the area was either closed or full (even weeks ago when I first asked). So, my only option was to go back to Gravina (the town I started from in the morning) with Fernando. Emiliana was so kind she took me back for one more night but the taxi back cost the same as a night in a hostel so I didn't even save any money. It was just the most demotivational feeling to have walked 30 km from the town you're going back to and paying for someone to take you back from where you started.

I was so exhausted, after this I just lied on the sofa for hours, went to bed at 9pm to rest for the last day, and the last 30 kilometres.

Hopefully tomorrow will be a nicer last day. The weather is going to be nice, no rain so I don't have to hurry, which is good because my feet barely function anymore and my toes are screaming at me.