Day 5 - Altamura - Gravina in Puglia ~ 20 km

Another early start to escape bad weather. Started at 6.40am. I tied my clothes to my backpack trying to dry them while I walk because they couldn't dry in yesterday's rainy weather (in the afternoon).


The scenery was so beautiful again. It reminds me of the game Carcassone. 
     Gravina in Puglia in the distance 

After 6 hours of walking I arrived in Gravina in Puglia at 1pm. I had quite a slow pace and felt very tired while walking. Maybe because I also only had 6 hours of sleep two nights in a row. But I was very happy that I could escape the rain once again. 


Gravina in Puglia might be the nicest town on the path so far. A very typical Italian town that you'd imagine, with much life and energy and beautiful buildings and food. 


Just as I arrived I went to my Couchsurfing host, Emiliana. She's a healing therapist, doing reiki and other things that I don't understand. She's just the best and kindest host, really emerging me into her local culture, explaining everything and makes such an effort to make me feel at home. She's the best. When I arrived she already cooked me lunch, a typical Italian pasta: 'bitch pasta' as she calls it 😂 because it's spicy. But the original Italian name is Spaghetti alla puttanesca. It was delicious and exactly what I needed after my big hike. 

                 The bitch pasta alla Emiliana


Emiliana has two cute cats. When you enter the house this sign welcomes you.


I think I'm approved.


To be honest it's really hard not to be approved by these two cats because they're the friendliest and nicest cats I've ever met. 


We relaxed in her flat for a bit, told each other our life stories and went out for dinner at 8pm with the other Italians, the two Katarinas, Rocco and Giuseppe. One of the other Italians went home yesterday because he wasn't feeling well. 


Such a beautiful town, something out of a fairytale. 


I had a margharita pizza for €4!!!! Pizza here is insanely cheap. When I first got a Capricciosa pizza here and the Italians said it's 6 euros I didn't want to believe it. You could eat like a king here but have nowhere to sleep because accommodation is very expensive. Just the opposite of Hungary. In Hungary you can find hostels for €10 but can't find pasta for the same price (anymore 😭 highest inflation in EU..)


We had our last evening together with the Italians as I'm staying another night here in Gravina. It was a bit sad saying goodbye as we got quite close during the past 5 days. Joked a lot about things. Especially me missing every single day important stops along the walk like local farms with cheese and other produce. But we'll see each other in September in the wine festival in Maschito (Mosquito lol) where Rocco and Giuseppe lives. They're about the only people who live in that town (and as Rocco and Giuseppe said the only reason they're friends; there was no one better haha). It's such a small town that these are the only three pictures Google Maps have online 😂

It's hilarious. 


The famous Maschito and its world-famous sights

I'll remember Giuseppe's attempts at English and memorable questions like 'Sara, do you have bladder?' (e.g. blisters) or 'Sara, can you give me a pleasure?' (e.g. do me a favour). 


Good luck with your hike tomorrow and all the best with everything! 

We went back with Emiliana and planning to do a real 'Dolce Vita' day tomorrow. Relaxing, walking around in the old town and eating ice cream. And resting my body a bit before I set out for a 30 km hike (the longest so far) tomorrow. 

110 km completed so far, only 2 days and 60 km left.

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